
December 31, 2008
Fairhope, Alabama
To our family family and friends all over the world, have a happy and healthy 2009!
Betty and Bob



 



 






 
 The rest of the afternoon, we read, I wrote some more, we watched the ocean and seabirds. It was fairly exhausting! For dinner, Bob grilled some chicken breasts and I made a veggie stir-fry and rice. After dinner, another swim in the pool with only the pool lights on and the Beatles cd that Mindy had made for me a few years ago. Then to bed. Last night, Bob set up the kennel right in front of the doorway to keep the dogs in but allow Howdy to sleep inside it. We left the cage door open and he slept part of the night there. We didn’t use the box fan last night because we didn’t really need it, and we wanted to hear the sound of the ocean waves breaking on the rocks below.
 The rest of the afternoon, we read, I wrote some more, we watched the ocean and seabirds. It was fairly exhausting! For dinner, Bob grilled some chicken breasts and I made a veggie stir-fry and rice. After dinner, another swim in the pool with only the pool lights on and the Beatles cd that Mindy had made for me a few years ago. Then to bed. Last night, Bob set up the kennel right in front of the doorway to keep the dogs in but allow Howdy to sleep inside it. We left the cage door open and he slept part of the night there. We didn’t use the box fan last night because we didn’t really need it, and we wanted to hear the sound of the ocean waves breaking on the rocks below. Yesterday morning after Bob and the dogs had scouted, we headed for the beach just north of here.  But to get there, we had to backtrack up the cobblestoned road, then down a ways to find the path and steps to the flat sandy beach north of us—maybe about a 15 minute walk altogether.  The stepped path was much easier to follow than the steps below here because they’re flatter and more level, with some stretches of flat no-steps to break the descent (and ascent).  The path winds through the jungle and Daisy scampered off and on the path, delighted to explore.  We broke through the edge of the jungle at the beach, which is a cove between two rocky outcroppings and cliffs, not very long, maybe 100 meters.  Where we came out of the jungle we saw some shady palapas and a few kayaks for rent, but there were only a couple of men tending those.  The sand was soft and deep there, but hard-packed closer to the ocean.  Two spear fishermen were taking a break in the lee of one of the rock outcroppings, and a young woman with a baby was sheltering at the north end beneath the cliffs, maybe the wife of the one kayak-renters.
Yesterday morning after Bob and the dogs had scouted, we headed for the beach just north of here.  But to get there, we had to backtrack up the cobblestoned road, then down a ways to find the path and steps to the flat sandy beach north of us—maybe about a 15 minute walk altogether.  The stepped path was much easier to follow than the steps below here because they’re flatter and more level, with some stretches of flat no-steps to break the descent (and ascent).  The path winds through the jungle and Daisy scampered off and on the path, delighted to explore.  We broke through the edge of the jungle at the beach, which is a cove between two rocky outcroppings and cliffs, not very long, maybe 100 meters.  Where we came out of the jungle we saw some shady palapas and a few kayaks for rent, but there were only a couple of men tending those.  The sand was soft and deep there, but hard-packed closer to the ocean.  Two spear fishermen were taking a break in the lee of one of the rock outcroppings, and a young woman with a baby was sheltering at the north end beneath the cliffs, maybe the wife of the one kayak-renters. 
 
 
 
 
 
 A favorite old Chicago song came to mind this morning when we woke up in our villa. Bob’s watch had mysteriously reset itself to local time which is mountain time here, we think, in Nayarit. But just a little bit south of here, when you cross back over into Jalisco—which is where PV is—it becomes central time again. No matter. The back refrain for the song goes: “I don’t care…”
A favorite old Chicago song came to mind this morning when we woke up in our villa. Bob’s watch had mysteriously reset itself to local time which is mountain time here, we think, in Nayarit. But just a little bit south of here, when you cross back over into Jalisco—which is where PV is—it becomes central time again. No matter. The back refrain for the song goes: “I don’t care…”
 
So, now I know the key—total and complete isolation. There’s a wonderful breeze and all the animals, 4-legged as well as 2, are muy contentos.
 
 
*From literature here in the villa about the area regarding animals:
“Jaguar, cougar, deer, skunk, possum, warthog, raccoon, iguana, green parrot, macaw, pelican, dolphin, sailfish, mahi mahi, red snapper, turtle, whale, etc.” Oh, and toilet-diving frogs!!
 
This morning, we walked down to the cove, about 100 very steep steps. Once down there, we couldn’t really get to the water because there was a drop-off and a steep slide of dirt between the end of the steps and the rocks where the waves were crashing. The dogs are nimble and young enough to manage it though and seemed to enjoy the romp. Later, we came back up and had breakfast. While I was cooking—with the open-air view to the ocean, remember—Bob yelled, “Come, look right now! Whales!” So we got the mini-binoculars and watched them blowing just offshore. Very cool. Bob says it’s his first whale sighting, but I had seen them once before when I rode Susannah’s ship from Pearl Harbor to San Diego. It’s very calm out there today. We’ve seen a few motorboats and one large sailboat with several sails. Bob scouted out another beach with the dogs while I’ve been writing. I think we’re going to head that way soon.
 San Pancho’s streets are cobblestoned; the main drag off MX 200 is called Avenida del Tercer Mundo.  Some of the side streets are called Pakistan, Camboya, Egipto, Kenia, Haiti, Africa, Cuba, plus all of the central American countries.  (What’s Birmania, I wonder?  Sounds kind of like Burma, maybe.)  Any street to the right, we were told by Susan the owner, would lead to the jungle road…and what a road.  Dirt, very deeply rutted, with holes we could have disappeared into.  The road goes up, down, and around all in the space of a few meters, it seemed like.  Of course, the dogs weren’t happy with this. Here comes Daisy again, bracing her front paws against the dash, hind legs digging into my legs.  Howdy’s back drooping his head between us again.  Their body language was so very clear: Please, aren’t we there yet???  Following Susan’s directions (which reminded me very much of the driving directions we got from Martha Fay to get to her Tuscany farmhouse at the top of a mountain in 2002), we twisted and climbed up and down, finally arriving at the villa.  It’s approximately 3 miles from the village, but we could probably walk it at least as fast as driving it.
 San Pancho’s streets are cobblestoned; the main drag off MX 200 is called Avenida del Tercer Mundo.  Some of the side streets are called Pakistan, Camboya, Egipto, Kenia, Haiti, Africa, Cuba, plus all of the central American countries.  (What’s Birmania, I wonder?  Sounds kind of like Burma, maybe.)  Any street to the right, we were told by Susan the owner, would lead to the jungle road…and what a road.  Dirt, very deeply rutted, with holes we could have disappeared into.  The road goes up, down, and around all in the space of a few meters, it seemed like.  Of course, the dogs weren’t happy with this. Here comes Daisy again, bracing her front paws against the dash, hind legs digging into my legs.  Howdy’s back drooping his head between us again.  Their body language was so very clear: Please, aren’t we there yet???  Following Susan’s directions (which reminded me very much of the driving directions we got from Martha Fay to get to her Tuscany farmhouse at the top of a mountain in 2002), we twisted and climbed up and down, finally arriving at the villa.  It’s approximately 3 miles from the village, but we could probably walk it at least as fast as driving it. So we were met by Juan Garcia (sort of the equivalent of John Smith), the caretaker, and his assistant. There are three separate villas: Peacock, Iguana, and Butterfly.  All are basically one large bedroom with two double beds and a full bath with tiled shower.  They have thatched palapa roofs with walls only ¾ of the way up.  So they’re wide open to breezes.  Peacock is at the top where the driveway ends.  It’s built above a laundry and storage area and is the biggest with a sitting area, a table and chairs and its own fridge. Iguana is about 30 twisting steps down from that with a little sitting patio and gorgeous view of the ocean.  More steps down and you’re in the palapa with the huge kitchen, dining areas, living room (all open air), deck and patio, and infinity pool, perched on the side of a cliff maybe 150 ft above the ocean with rocks and booming waves below.
  So we were met by Juan Garcia (sort of the equivalent of John Smith), the caretaker, and his assistant. There are three separate villas: Peacock, Iguana, and Butterfly.  All are basically one large bedroom with two double beds and a full bath with tiled shower.  They have thatched palapa roofs with walls only ¾ of the way up.  So they’re wide open to breezes.  Peacock is at the top where the driveway ends.  It’s built above a laundry and storage area and is the biggest with a sitting area, a table and chairs and its own fridge. Iguana is about 30 twisting steps down from that with a little sitting patio and gorgeous view of the ocean.  More steps down and you’re in the palapa with the huge kitchen, dining areas, living room (all open air), deck and patio, and infinity pool, perched on the side of a cliff maybe 150 ft above the ocean with rocks and booming waves below. 
 .  A few steps down from the common area is Butterfly with a set-up similar to the others—somewhat less private I think, as the steps down to the cove go right by that villa.  Only Peacock has a door and the means to lock anything up.  The other two have no doors or windows, only curtains for privacy—which would block the breezes.  There are doors to the bathrooms, of course, but that’s pretty much it.  It's amazing to us, having lived in Mexico for awhile now, how remarkably unsecured everything is.
 .  A few steps down from the common area is Butterfly with a set-up similar to the others—somewhat less private I think, as the steps down to the cove go right by that villa.  Only Peacock has a door and the means to lock anything up.  The other two have no doors or windows, only curtains for privacy—which would block the breezes.  There are doors to the bathrooms, of course, but that’s pretty much it.  It's amazing to us, having lived in Mexico for awhile now, how remarkably unsecured everything is. We’re on the west side of Guad now on the cuota.  Right this minute we’re driving past Tequila off to our right.  It seems to be in a valley with a line of mountains on the other side.  Very pretty.  The countryside reminds me a lot of parts of California with brown hills and small trees, some mesquite, others I don’t recognize.  Ahead of us, directly west is a long line of high mountains, the chain of the Sierra Madres we have to cross before getting to the coast.  We’re going WNW in the direction of Tepic, but we’ll cut south  of there. That’s not a great road, we’ve heard.  Our goal is to get to the villas before 3:30 when the caretaker leaves for the day.  No big problem, the owner says (from Washington).  If he has to leave before we get there, he’ll just leave everything open for us!  We’ll be the only ones there until late Thursday.  Should be fun.
  We’re on the west side of Guad now on the cuota.  Right this minute we’re driving past Tequila off to our right.  It seems to be in a valley with a line of mountains on the other side.  Very pretty.  The countryside reminds me a lot of parts of California with brown hills and small trees, some mesquite, others I don’t recognize.  Ahead of us, directly west is a long line of high mountains, the chain of the Sierra Madres we have to cross before getting to the coast.  We’re going WNW in the direction of Tepic, but we’ll cut south  of there. That’s not a great road, we’ve heard.  Our goal is to get to the villas before 3:30 when the caretaker leaves for the day.  No big problem, the owner says (from Washington).  If he has to leave before we get there, he’ll just leave everything open for us!  We’ll be the only ones there until late Thursday.  Should be fun. We’re now passing acres of fields of agave.  According to Mexican law, agave can only be grown in the state Jalisco (this one) and in all the states that border Jalisco.  However, tequila can only be distilled in the state of Jalisco.  Well, that’s the law anyway.  Whether it’s followed to the letter, I can’t say.
 We’re now passing acres of fields of agave.  According to Mexican law, agave can only be grown in the state Jalisco (this one) and in all the states that border Jalisco.  However, tequila can only be distilled in the state of Jalisco.  Well, that’s the law anyway.  Whether it’s followed to the letter, I can’t say.
