Oct 26, 2012

Pyrenees Atlantique


Drove down here on Thursday and spent the night in a lovely B&B in Mauleon, a town just north of Idaux-Mendy, where our house sit is.  The scene above is the view from our bedroom window at the B&B.  One other thing about the B&B-- can anyone tell me where one is supposed to pour the coffee?

Yes--- in the soup bowl!




Alastair, Louise, Charlie and Olivia didn't leave until about 4:30 this afternoon, so we spent the morning driving through the mountains to St. Jean Pied-de-Port.  Beautiful village, just 8 kilos from the Spanish border.  Had a lovely lunch and didn't make it to the border (another day.)



 
 And it was a grey day. But the Pyrenees are beautiful! We stopped along the highway at several pullouts, gasping at the scenery as the valleys and peaks unfolded along the way.
At one point, we heard bells clanging and thought, "Goats? Cows?" So we hiked 50 yards up the road where a pasture (if you can call a nearly vertical field a pasture) opened up and sure enough-- cows. (Supposed to be a video here, but can't get it to upload.  Maybe later.)
 


And, finally, our primary charge for the next two weeks, Izzy.


More photos of the mountains here.
  

Oct 24, 2012

The Bastides


The Bastides are a series of fortified towns built generally on the top of hills throughout the countryside.  Georgeous, lots of character.  Had lunch in one.  Here's some pics.

Tomorrow, off to the Pyrenees Atlantique!

Oct 22, 2012

Lascaux

 
 
Went to Lascaux today to see the caves.  Unfortunately, because of deterioration caused by visiting hoards, the actual caves have been closed to the public since 1963.  But they have duplicated a good part of the original, including the actual shapes and contours of the rock, as well as the paintings, in an amazing replica.  Sorry, no pics allowed.  But some pretty amazing art from 17,000 years ago!
 
Spent the rest of the day wandering along the rivers Vezere and Dordogne.  Can't share the wine, but here's a couple of pics.
 
 
 






Oct 21, 2012

Les Eyzies


This small village, which lies along the River Vezere, hosts the National Museum of PreHistoire.  This area contains many prehistoric artifacts and caves where some of the earliest examples of prehistoric art still exist.  We'll get to the caves in the next couple of days.  Meanwhile, wandered the museum, the upper reaches which are in the picture above.  Lots of bones (pre-human and otherwise), tools, weapons, etc.  Couldn't take any pics in the museum-- sorry.  But here's more of us enjoying the village.

But I wanted to include Betty with what she insists is the biggest bottle of Mouton Cadet she's ever seen:



and a very picturesque roadside pullout-- who sez the French language is rigid?

Oct 19, 2012

Beynac & Castelnaud

Today it was castles along the Dordogne River.  Actually, these are fortifications built by the French and the English in the 11th and 12th centuries on either side of the river, then passed back and forth numerous times during the 100 Years War.

Beynac

 
Very cool.  Lots of pics, which include the surrounding village, one of Mom's new friends, etc.  Note that you can see Castelnaud (other side of the river) from the ramparts.







(Long zoom to Castelnaud)






Then lunch

 
Yes, that's a whole bottle of wine.  A beautiful restaurant, Belle Etoile, which had been recommended by our host.  Expensive?  Yes.  Worth it?  Absolutely.  Overlooking the river, great service, excellent meal.  Foie gras apps, then rack of lamb for me and duck breast for Mom, and a gorgeous brie for dessert.  Check this out:
 
 
Amazingly, we were still awake and continued on to

Castelnaud

 
Another amazing castle/fort, built on and into the rock cliffs, surrounded by a picturesque village.  Got caught in the rain at the end and got soaked.  Oh, well...   More pics.



Oct 17, 2012

Sarlat


Visited Sarlat, an old fortified city, today (I guess all the cities and villages around here qualify as "old," don't they?)  Wednesday is their market day-- not too impressive, but it's out of season here.  Lots of foie gras, etc.  Had a great lunch (foie gras, cassoulet, creme caramel) and wandered around.  Bought a gluten-free almond cake (yumm!) and a French extension cord, the problem being a severe shortage of outlets in 13th century houses!

Mom got up at 3AM to watch the debate online, so we quit kind of early today.  Hopefully, we'll get some blogging started soon.

Pics of Sarlat.

Oct 16, 2012

Southwest France Fall 2012

 
 
Early AM, October 13, 2012.

Enroute

 
 

Our B&B, about halfway between Paris and the Dordogne.  Kathy and Martin were great hosts (she's American, he's British.)  Had a wonderful meal and an overall great evening - sort of like dropping in on old friends.  We'll be stopping here again on the way North.

Meyrals

 
 Our village in the countryside. Pretty, very small.  About 10 miles from the river.


La Ruche


 
 
This is our house.  We think it dates from the 13th century.  You can see the worn steps in the hall.

The Dordogne

 
 
Just a taste.