Zacatecas

After leaving Aguascalientes on August 6 (I think), it was just a short 1 1/2 hour drive north on good roads to Zacatecas. Z. is another of Mexico's colonial cities in the central highlands. The Spanish quickly figured out where the silver and copper were coming from and wasted no time setting los indios to work in the mines. Right alongside them, of course, were the priests using the indios as slaves to build massive stone churches. Named UNESCO World heritage site for its beautifully preserved colonial architecture, Z. was also the site of Pancho Villa's last and bloodiest battle at the Cerra de la Bufa, a huge bluff with stone outcroppings overlooking the city. We toured one of the mines, going deep underground on a little train, wearing hard hats. It was a wonderful tour, especially after we attached ourselves to a family from LA whose father was translating for them what the tour guide was saying! An elevator took us to the top of the bluff opposite la Bufa, where we boarded the teleferico, for a cable car ride across the narrowest part of the city, right above the historical center. That took us to the top of La Bufa, where we could see the city spread below us through incredibly clear air (nearly 8000 ft). We toured the Pancho Villa museum there, walked around, ate lunch, bought some souvenirs. (Note the picture on snapfish of the Indian woman with the cell phone pressed to her ear.) The first day we had toured el centro with the cathedral and several other churches, the palacio del gobierno where we saw another extensive mural depicting the bloody and conflicted history of Mexico. So far, every state or municipal building we've been in has such murals. They almost always show similar scenes: the Spanish conquerers enslaving the Indians, ravaging the country for its treasures; despite it being a Catholic country, the Church doesn't fare too well either as most of the 20th century muralists depict them as equally responsible for poverty and despair. We toured a wonderful museum, the Museo Pedro Coronel. The building was originally a Jesuit monastery built in the 1600s, then used as a jail in the next century. Now it holds the works of home town artist and sculptor Pedro Coronel plus his huge collection of 20th century artist (Picasso, Chagll, Miro, Braque, Dali, among others). In addition to that is a formidable collection of art from all over the world. And the setting in this colonial building with its courtyards, barred windows, secluded gardens, was breathtaking. Because we had only allowed two days there as part of our trip back to the US, we left much unexplored and really want to go back. It's one of the most beautiful cities I've ever seen. For more images, click here.