Last Few Days in Ajijic

Time is getting short for us here, and every day seems to be more and more meaningful. Today we met Jan and Jack to take a ride to the east of Chapala, still along the north side of the lake. These last few days our friends are being exceptionally attentive (which makes it even harder to leave). Jan had asked the other day what we had wanted to do that we hadn't done yet. And I said, see what's east of Chapala, a relatively undeveloped area compared to this side of Chapala. So we drove east, first to a country club community overlooking a gorgeous golf course. While it's only a few minutes east of Chapala, it really becomes country right away. We had lunch at the clubhouse (yummy) and then drove up the steep slopes admiring the houses. Continuing our drive farther east (and thus farther away from development) we encountered some beautiful views of the lake and a couple of neighborhoods where the houses and grounds could rival anything in Malibu. Impeccable grounds and breathtaking views. Yet this area, east of Chapala by a few miles, is considered too far out.

This afternoon, after we got back home, Bob and I took the dogs for a walk through the village with some last minute shopping in mind. While Bob took the dogs for a walk along the malecon by the lake, I bought another outfit at Mi Mexico. Then I took the dogs and he bought a couple of t-shirts at La Flor, on the opposite corner. We walked back home along the lake and decided to stop at La Tasca for a drink. We hadn't been there for a couple of weeks so we were welcomed warmly (that's so nice). There's a table with a small platform in the garden, view across the lake, away from the rest of the tables where the dogs aren't in the way. While we were there, the two strolling troubadors came by. We see them almost every evening. They park at our corner, then stroll to the various restaurants to play before the headliners begin about 8 pm. We always exchange greetings, a few words. So tonight, we talked a few minutes, told them we're leaving next week, and they wanted to play for us. I suggested they choose what to play, and Carlos, the father, said, "For you, we're playing Vaya con Dios." And they did. Such lovely people. So hard to leave.

An Ordinary Day

I realized, after posting the last several posts, how our entries have changed since we got here. At first, we were writing about the day-to-day life and how we were coping with the little things. Then, as we began to have company and get more familiar with our surroundings, we began to post only on special things. We've talked about how comfortable it seems being here. At some point--I don't know when exactly--being ceased to be extraordinary and came to feel normal. But I thought I'd share an ordinary day just for fun.

We have been sleeping late every morning. The cool nights and mornings are wonderful for sleeping. We got up around 9 this morning, ready to take the dogs out, make coffee, and so on. Gaby (our maid, not the baby) was due, as this is one of her three days. But the phone rang, and she told Bob (somehow--since neither of them speaks the other's language) that her village of San Juan Cosala, about 5 miles or so west from here along the lake, had flooded and she wouldn't be able to get in. No problem, Bob said. Later, as I checked on the forums on line, we learned that there had been a mudslide on the mountain just north of the village and many homes had disappeared. We'll learn more from her Friday, but she appears to be safe.

We went to the village market--the tianguis--about noon. It's just a few blocks from us, so we walked, of course. The streets were still full of puddles from the heavy rain last night, but it was sunny and warm. We bought a fish, cut into two filets--mahi mahi, the vendor called it. We also bought some broccoli, green beans, lettuce, mushrooms, limes, a baguette, and avocados. I love shopping in the open markets. Of course, I'll have to soak whatever of the above that we'll eat raw. We use a few drops of an antibacterial in water to clean raw veggies and fruit. I had lunch at the market--a gordita with mushrooms and cheese, yummy. Bob opted to come home and have p, b, and j. During the afternoon, we read both books and the internet, let the dogs out. At four, Bob wanted to walk up to an optical shop near the plaza to have eye exams. We walked up there, but they were closed. We got an ice cream cone at the plaza, then Bob walked on to his barbershop and I came home to write.

Wow, what a boring day we had!

Muestra del Rebozos

This was a delight for Bob. All these beautiful women just posing for him! At the plaza on Sunday, Sept. 9, there was a celebration of the rebozo, which was actually a recognition of the role of women in Mexican culture. Everywhere were females wearing robozos of all kinds--embroidered, woven, scarves, blankets, Indian-influenced, Spanish. There was a mariachi band in the bandstand (Of course!) with a female singer, probably a local celebrity, but we didn't know who she was. There were prizes to the girls for participation in the charreada, the young women who had competed for the title of La Reina were presented, one woman read a long poem about the history and significance of the rebozo and the many functions it has in a woman's life. Then, everybody paraded, very slowly, very proudly around the outside of the plaza, into the inner square. They were grouped primarily by age, it seemed, with the youngest parading first (some were tiny!) to the oldest last. And in that group of the oldest, they displayed the dignity and attitude that couldn't be denied. Very powerful. The whole event must have taken at least two hours. Nobody was in a rush. Again, as in the week before, the plaza was crowded with families, proud parents taking pictures and videos, music and lots of activity. Lots of pics! Click here.

Ballet Folklorico

Saturday night, September 1, while Mindy and Mark were here, we went to Chapala with some friends to see this dance troup from Vera Cruz and to hear some mariachi bands. Chapala is the center of the municipality here along the north side of the lake and the largest town. The dancers were terrific, taking a break to change costumes. Unfortunately, because of an accident that overturned their van on the way to Chapala, the mariachis didn't make it. When we left, all we knew was that there had been an accident but no idea of the extent. It sounded serious. Later in the week, we learned that no one had been hurt, and we got to hear the mariachis at the correada and at the plaza. Que bueno! Sorry the pictures aren't better-- anyway, click here.

Charreada

Since the month of September celebrates one of Mexico's two independence days (Sept. 16 and Nov. 16), Mexicans have figured out a way to make the celebrations last for a whole month. Beginning Sept. 1, various activities began in villages and cities all over the country, most of them featuring mariachi music, dancing, horses, and beautiful females. At the beginning of the month, vendors showed up on the street corners selling Mexican flags of all sizes, sombreros that say Viva Mexico, and drums and bugels. At the plaza and on many houses, the decorative paper banners hang, sort of like doilies but rectangular and in the colors of the flag. Bob and I went to this charreada in Ajijic at the bullring just a few blocks from our house, Friday, Sept. 7. We're not really sure how a charreada differs from a rodeo. There were some similar events--riding bucking broncos, roping bulls, lassoing young horses, etc.--but there seems to be more emphasis on horsemanship. The horses are magnificent, but we were really impressed with the young girls riding sidesaddle, dressed in their elaborate costumes. The youngest of the girls was only 4 years old, trotting around on a pony. The other girls are about 8-12. In one picture taken at the plaza later, there's Sophia and her little sister Marianna. A Mexican family with a little 4-year-old named Julianna sat next to us, and Julianna took a liking to me. When it began to rain a bit, her mother whipped out umbrellas and offered us one. Julianna told her mother that she was going to sit with me. We shared a bag of chips from a vendor in the stands. He opens the chips, then sprinkles chili powder and squeezes fresh lime juice on them in the bag. Yum! The charreado lasted for almost 3 hours. We went home just before the end, but headed out to the plaza about 8:30 that night for the mariachi bands and to watch the promenades. Beautiful sights and sounds with the music, the children playing and running around. A real fiesta. Bob has a picture here of one little girl, dancing in place all by herself to the music of the mariachis. Charreada. For more photos, click here.

The Transformer

Yup, accident plus two weeks and this is what we're driving! Toyota called on Wednesday and told us they're waiting on the last 3 parts-- we're hoping to get fixed this next week. We'll see-- after all, we are in Mexico!

An interesting sidelight. After Toyota first inspected the van and ordered parts, we told them that we would return to pick up the van and just drive it for two weeks or whatever, until the parts arrived. "Oh, no, senor! You cannot drive a damaged car in Mexico. One, your insurance won't cover you. Two, the police will not allow it." Obviously, we poo-pooed the first as we'd seen many "damaged" cars on the roads here. The second-- well, we called the insurance company and they had no problem with continuing to drive the van." So, we went back to Guad and got it.

Although it seems everybody stares and smiles at us now, we had no problems around Ajijic. However, we did get pulled over by a motorcycle cop on the periferico in Guad. He patiently explained that we could not drive a damaged car in Mexico without a permit, generally issued to allow you to drive to the repair shop. Damn! Anyway, we talked for a while, he examined all the papers (including the Toyota work order) and decided that it wasn't my day for a ticket. Nothing worse than stares since then. If we can make it another couple of days.........